The founding of Fatehpur Sikri reads like a fairytale. When all else had failed, the Emperor Akbar came here in search of the renowned Sufi mystic, Sheikh Salim Chishti, to ask the blessing of a son. His prayer was heard, and soon a son was born. In honour of the saint, Akbar named the prince Salim and vowed to found a new city. And so Fatehpur Sikri, a magnificent new city rose on the craggy hills 40 kilometers from Agra. And for 16 short but memorable years it was the wonder of travellers from all over the world.

Today, Fatehpur Sikri is a deserted, phantom city. But the inner citadel is immaculately preserved. Its walls, palaces, baths, royal mint, courts and gardens still stand in splendid homage to a great visionary and builder. The heart of the palace complex however, is very much alive. For at the tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti, a white marble canopy set in the great courtyard of the Royal Mosque, pilgrims still come in  thousands to offer flowers, tie a thread in the latticed screens, and to pray for the gift of son.